The demeanour of the stranger towards the natives must be
somewhat modified in accordance with the various parts of the
country through which he travels. The Italians of the north re¬
semble the inhabitants of the south of France, and those of Italian
Switzerland. The character of the Tuscans is more effeminate,
their language and manners more refined. The bearing of the Ro¬
man is grave and proud. With all of these, however, the stranger
will find no difficulty in associating; and acts of civility ot kind¬
ness will not be misplaced, even when conferred on persons of
the lower ranks. With the class of Neapolitans with whom the
traveller generally comes in contact the case is entirely different.
Dishonest and perfidious to an almost incredible extent, cringing
and obsequious, they seem to conspire to embitter the traveller's
enjoyment of their delightful country. It is to be hoped that a
better era is dawning under the present regime, and that the
^policy' of honesty will at length begin to penetrate the Italian mind.
Eailways. With regard to the rapid advance of this modern
essential of civilisation the remarks already made (p. XI) may
suffice. — It may le added that the greatest speed attained by
the trains is extremely moderate.
Porters who convey luggage to and from the carriages are suf¬
ficiently rewarded with a few sous, where there is no fixed tariff.
It is a wise, and often necessary precaution (see p. XII) to be
provided with the exact fare before taking tickets.
The most trustworthy information respecting Lours of starting,
fares etc. is afforded by the '-Guida-orario uffi'iale di tutte le strade
ferrate d'Italia'' (see p. VI), with which the traveller should not
fail to provide himself. The local time-tables of the Tuscan, Ro¬
man, and Neapolitan lines will also be found useful, and may be
procured at the railway-stations for a few sous.
Steamboats. A voyage on the Mediterranean or Adriatic is
almost inseparably connected with a tour in Italy and Sicily, irre¬
spective of the fact that the latter can be reached by water only.
If the vessel plies near the coast, the voyage is often extreme¬
ly entertaining; and if the open sea is traversed, the magnificent
Italian sunsets, which light up the deep blue water with their
crimson rays, present a scene not easily forgotten.
Tickets should be purchased by the traveller in person at the
office of the company. The ticket is furnished with the purchaser's
name and destination, the name of the vessel, and the hour of
departure. Fares, duration of voyage etc. are stated in each in¬
stance in the following pages. Family-tickets for the first or second
class, for not fewer than three persons. are issued by a!! the
•companies at a reduction of 20 per cent on the fare, but not on
the cost of food. A child of 2 — 10 years pays half-fare, but in